Category Archives: Nature

Rocky Mountain High, in Colorado…

(This is a catch-up post. We had such a good time in Parker, and such a hectic schedule after, I am still trying to get us current.  As you may have noticed yesterday, we have a bit of time on our hands now. We left Denver heading east on Memorial Day. )

We have not actually spent the last six weeks in Moab. We did raft the mighty Colorado on a day-long expedition out of Moab.

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From Moab, our little rig, with our Dodge Caravan as always in tow, chugged up Wolf Creek Pass IMG_3156in southern Colorado, after a day at Mesa Verde National Park.

 

 

We had visited the cliff dwellings before, and they seemed none-the-worse for wear in the last ten years.

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The older I get, the harder it is to get my head around building something that lasts for centuries, with one’s bare hands. I wonder if the Puebloan who arose one June morning around the time Chris Columbus was cajoling Queen Isabella for cash thought over his breakfast of arrowroot and water about how to select rocks and mud that would support his dwelling roof through the bronze age, the industrial revolution, space exploration, and Miley Cyrus.

Probably not.

From Wolf Creek Pass, way up on the Great Divide, we found ourselves truckin’ on down the other side, and into Alamosa. On the way in, we passed the motel-in-the-drive in, a quirky establishment I stayed in in 1969 on a trip with my Aunt Kathy, and where Jen and I stayed again on a Colorado trip about ten years ago. In 1969 I saw the original True Grit there, with John Wayne and Kim Darby.

The next day we waxed up our boards and headed for Great Sand Dunes National Park, to show Coloradans how the coast dwellers play on running water. At the base of the Dunes is a river that runs about 200 feet wide and four inches deep—when it runs at all. In the lee of snow-capped Rockies peaks, my middle son demonstrated skimboarding. It’s probably been done there before, in this geological oddity–miles of sand beach in search of its ocean, now a thousand miles away. But it sure was fun to watch middle-son frolic.

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We left Moab for the most intense part of the drive so far. In southern Arizona, just beyond the area of Mesa Verde in the southwest part of the state.  Though we hadn’t planned to go to Mesa Verde, we hadn’t planned on Arches either, and once we realized how close we were, well, how could we not revisit the ruins of our ancient kin?

From the Great Sand Dunes, we pointed north for a week of R&R with brother Mike in sunny Parker, Colorado, and some repairs on the Caravan. We all breathed a collective sigh of contentment. For the first time on the trip, we were headed for a destination we knew well–my brother’s comfortable, spacious home.

We backtracked the second day to the Cheyenne Zoo, on the east slope of Cheyenne Mountain overlooking the Broadmoor Resort in Colorado Springs. We got there just in time to experience a hellacious hailstorm, and still carry the pockmarks on the Dodge to remember it by.

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The next day we paid a visit to the very cool Denver Museum of IMG_3232Nature and Science and were again patting ourselves on the back for buying our Museum membership back in Dallas at the Perot Museum.

 

Mike has never been one to let the grass grow under his feet, and while we were in town, in one memorable day, we drove to Boulder to tour the Hammond’s Candy Factory in Denver, then to tour the Celestial Seasonings Tea headquarters on (of course! Sleepytime Drive in Boulder, and then to The Boulder Dinner Theater featuring Shrek! The Musical!

The Hammonds candy tour will be remembered best for the IMG_3364moment when 20 cell phones sounded simultaneously in the tour group to warn of an approaching tornado. We chatted up the employees while huddled in the ladies room, waiting for the all-clear signal. We also loaded up on candy, to show our appreciation for the free tour, and to support local merchants.

The Celestial Seasonings tour featured a variety of tea samples, IMG_3376including ones we hadn’t heard of, and we bought several boxes at below-retail. Then we were off to the dinner theater with Uncle Mike, and cousins Matt and Jenny, for a night of laughs, thrills, and very touching moments.

Next day, we boarded the Georgetown Loop Railroad for a short but  IMG_7887wonderful excursion from Georgetown, CO up Clear Creek in the Rockies Front Range to the town of Silver Plume.

 

Mid-trip, we climbed off for a mine tour of the old Lebanon Silver Mine that turned out to be a real treasure! IMG_3401The guide was a lifelong resident of Silver Plume, and she really knew her mining stuff! She was a delight, and answered every question with wit and a deep knowledge.  We also learned about the miners’ lunch–pasties–which we had a chance to sample later in our trip.

Trudging out from our day (one hour, fifteen minutes) in the mines, we were of course, ravenous. So next stop was for Mountain Pizza in Georgetown. Yes, pizza by the pound. Coming back into Parker, we stopped by Littleton in a driving rainstorm to snap a picture of the house on Josephine Way where I spent my fifteenth summer. My brother pointed out Columbine High School, three blocks from where I’d lived. Columbine has always had a connection for Jen and me. The tragedy started the week we married, in 1999, and sadly, continues every several weeks or so that schools are in session.

In America.

We wrapped up Colorado with a street festival in Denver on South Gaylord Street. IMG_3423For all your income tax needs, stop in at Mike Downs, CPA, 1040 Gaylord Street. 1040. Get it? The Festival was followed by a splendid cookout in Boulder at Matt and Jen’s, where we met their newest family member, and desserted on Chocolate Mousse cake from Carlo’s Bakery in Las Vegas. (Yes, the boys and I went back after all and bought a cake, froze it, and toted it to Colorado with us!)

Colorado is the one state west of the Mississippi where we feel at home already. We spent two weeks there nine years ago, and again two weeks three years ago, and if  it wasn’t so far from the ocean, we would strongly consider calling it home.

While it Wasn’t on our Schedule…

As the immortal bard John Lennon once said, “Life is what happens to us while we are busy making other plans.”  On Wednesday, at 12:23 pm Central Time, as we drove from Mitchell, SD to our next camp in Hot Springs, SD, our motor home broke down just before exit 225 on I-90.  It went into what is called limp mode. It is hard to imagine a more apt technical term.

We limped off the interstate in the general direction of a gas station at the top of a hill on Highway 16.  We never reached the top. What followed was a series of calls, starting with the Good Sam Roadside Assistance dispatch.  Phrases like, “holiday week, ” “remote location,” “limited options,” sprinkled the short conversation between interminable hold periods.

Other things happened too.  Two motor homes  and a guy in a pick up truck stopped to make sure we were okay.  Jordan was dispatched by Sam from Charley’s Auto Service in Kennebec , nine miles back, to see if he could determine if it was worth hauling us to his shop. He couldn’t, but not for lack of trying.

It is one of those mysterious events that befall vehicles, that I stopped worrying about at some point in the last 3,500 miles or so.  We have covered almost 30 states without so much as a hiccough from this faithful lumbering beast, and now a baffling, and possibly very expensive, ailment has her functioning perfectly as a camper and not a whit as a conveyance.

We were immediately befriended by Beth and Lauren of the New Frontier RV park in Presho, SD.  They enlisted a neighbor,  Scott part-owner of Hutch’s Cafe & Lounge in Presho, to tow our motor home with his pickup truck the half-mile or so to the campground. photo 4 July 4 Wouldn’t take anything but thanks for the effort. We can’t get anyone to look at the motor home until Tuesday, July 8. In Chamberlain, forty miles back.

Now I remember why I love blogs. It’s the immediacy. The “this is what’s happening now, won’t it be interesting to see how it turns out?” emotion of the moment.  Funny thing, last time I felt this way was when our car broke down in San Antonio.  There is a moral there.

Beth and Lauren have invited us to a Fourth of July picnic tonight in camp. Not sure what we’ll do.  It is a beautiful, idyllic setting, and quite peaceful.photo 2 July 4

I keep thinking of the thousands who’d planned to spend their Fourth on the Outer Banks, and the wrenching experience of forced evacuations for Arthur.  We hope everyone is safe, somewhere. Keep low, Jimmy B, since I am sure you stayed on the island.

Give me Presho, photo 1 July 4and the strong sense that, just today, the nation’s birth day, we are right where we are supposed to be. Happy Independence Day, to friends and loved ones near and far.  Be safe, be well. Be grateful.

And pass the potato salad!

Arches and Big Water

From the land of hoodoos, we headed toward Denver, then dropped down again into southern Utah, to a quirky, high-energy town called Moab.  This was our center for Arches National Park, and rafting the Colorado.  We were far above the Grand Canyon, so no worries there.IMG_3106

Arches is another playground of the Divine, an eerie, haunting, and yet whimsical distortion of the ground under our feet. Or more precisely, the rock under the ground under our feet.

Formed in several different ways, the Arches are living things. Or at least in a constant journey somewhere between birth and death. While there are 1,200 arches in the park (many far out of sight of all but the most archesadventurous), once one understands the process of formation, one can actually see birthings and death throes of arches.  The trick is to see in geological time.

Talk about humbling.  To photograph something, to stare at it, when to it, I am less substantial than last week’s clipped fingernail. But enough zen.

We did several hikes in Arches, and also connected with a really fine outfitter in Moab. Since five-year-olds were allowed on the river–okay , we hoped they wouldn’t card our four-year-old–I thought, how bad can it possibly be?  I groused about the need for a guide, but Jen was insistent.  IMG_3095Wives are so wise.

We had a wonderful ride, and the two older boys traveled the whole trip in a double duckie–a kind of inflatable kayak.  It was for the use of anyone in our raft, but the guys were having so much fun I think no one wanted to displace them, which was kind of our rafting mates.

We had a wonderful picnic lunch mid-day at a small rocky beach.  Our guide knew the river well, and did a great job of chatting us up during the trip about the wonders of southern Utah.  We were sold, and Moab is an amazing, quirky village in the red high desert.  But we had only one day to enjoy the surroundings, after losing a day waiting out snow.

We would love to return one day to the Moab area. It would be an awesome place to have a family vacation, but it is probably a bit more crowded in the summer.  Everything is a trade off, and Moab is a long way from Maryland, but it has a great deal to recommend it.

Onward to southern Arizona!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Those Traveling Seals!

California’s Central Coast neatly divides Northern and Southern California, culturally as well as geographically.

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Elephant Seal Beach, aka Piedras Blancas rookery

One site that was recommended by brother Mike (who knows the area well because son Matt graduated from Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo) is the Elephant Seal Rookery , several miles above San Simeon on California Highway One.  The Elephant Seals used to use this desolate stretch of coast for centuries for their land-based activities, then simply stopped coming.

In 1990, the seals returned, and now thousands of them call it home during the mating, molting, and birthing seasons, for 2-4 months a year. Here is son two’s take on our visit:

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Resting between rounds

The elephant seal beach was really cool. There were a lot of them, like thousands. All of them were molting, which means their skin was peeling and the seals were fighting, which was really cool. The reason they were fighting was for breeding rights. The alpha male battles other males to see who will be the alpha male and there are other battles between the beta males.

Okay, not a lot of fighting in the photo, because they also don’t eat while they are out of the ocean shedding. But the fights we saw were cool.  The seals migrate as much as 3,000 miles a year, and dive thousands of feet to feed.  While we have covered a lot of miles, this is really our once-in-a-lifetime.  The seals do it every year! We also have not had to deal with orcas trying to make us a meal!

We also visited Moonstone Beach, in a gusting, cold wind, to lay on the warm rocks and pick over the mountains of smooth, tiny pebbles that form the beach of this quiet enclave.

With its rolling hills and industrious farms, the Central Coast is a place we’d love to return to.  A unique, and very Mediterranean feel!