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Rocky Mountain High, in Colorado…

(This is a catch-up post. We had such a good time in Parker, and such a hectic schedule after, I am still trying to get us current.  As you may have noticed yesterday, we have a bit of time on our hands now. We left Denver heading east on Memorial Day. )

We have not actually spent the last six weeks in Moab. We did raft the mighty Colorado on a day-long expedition out of Moab.

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From Moab, our little rig, with our Dodge Caravan as always in tow, chugged up Wolf Creek Pass IMG_3156in southern Colorado, after a day at Mesa Verde National Park.

 

 

We had visited the cliff dwellings before, and they seemed none-the-worse for wear in the last ten years.

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The older I get, the harder it is to get my head around building something that lasts for centuries, with one’s bare hands. I wonder if the Puebloan who arose one June morning around the time Chris Columbus was cajoling Queen Isabella for cash thought over his breakfast of arrowroot and water about how to select rocks and mud that would support his dwelling roof through the bronze age, the industrial revolution, space exploration, and Miley Cyrus.

Probably not.

From Wolf Creek Pass, way up on the Great Divide, we found ourselves truckin’ on down the other side, and into Alamosa. On the way in, we passed the motel-in-the-drive in, a quirky establishment I stayed in in 1969 on a trip with my Aunt Kathy, and where Jen and I stayed again on a Colorado trip about ten years ago. In 1969 I saw the original True Grit there, with John Wayne and Kim Darby.

The next day we waxed up our boards and headed for Great Sand Dunes National Park, to show Coloradans how the coast dwellers play on running water. At the base of the Dunes is a river that runs about 200 feet wide and four inches deep—when it runs at all. In the lee of snow-capped Rockies peaks, my middle son demonstrated skimboarding. It’s probably been done there before, in this geological oddity–miles of sand beach in search of its ocean, now a thousand miles away. But it sure was fun to watch middle-son frolic.

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We left Moab for the most intense part of the drive so far. In southern Arizona, just beyond the area of Mesa Verde in the southwest part of the state.  Though we hadn’t planned to go to Mesa Verde, we hadn’t planned on Arches either, and once we realized how close we were, well, how could we not revisit the ruins of our ancient kin?

From the Great Sand Dunes, we pointed north for a week of R&R with brother Mike in sunny Parker, Colorado, and some repairs on the Caravan. We all breathed a collective sigh of contentment. For the first time on the trip, we were headed for a destination we knew well–my brother’s comfortable, spacious home.

We backtracked the second day to the Cheyenne Zoo, on the east slope of Cheyenne Mountain overlooking the Broadmoor Resort in Colorado Springs. We got there just in time to experience a hellacious hailstorm, and still carry the pockmarks on the Dodge to remember it by.

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The next day we paid a visit to the very cool Denver Museum of IMG_3232Nature and Science and were again patting ourselves on the back for buying our Museum membership back in Dallas at the Perot Museum.

 

Mike has never been one to let the grass grow under his feet, and while we were in town, in one memorable day, we drove to Boulder to tour the Hammond’s Candy Factory in Denver, then to tour the Celestial Seasonings Tea headquarters on (of course! Sleepytime Drive in Boulder, and then to The Boulder Dinner Theater featuring Shrek! The Musical!

The Hammonds candy tour will be remembered best for the IMG_3364moment when 20 cell phones sounded simultaneously in the tour group to warn of an approaching tornado. We chatted up the employees while huddled in the ladies room, waiting for the all-clear signal. We also loaded up on candy, to show our appreciation for the free tour, and to support local merchants.

The Celestial Seasonings tour featured a variety of tea samples, IMG_3376including ones we hadn’t heard of, and we bought several boxes at below-retail. Then we were off to the dinner theater with Uncle Mike, and cousins Matt and Jenny, for a night of laughs, thrills, and very touching moments.

Next day, we boarded the Georgetown Loop Railroad for a short but  IMG_7887wonderful excursion from Georgetown, CO up Clear Creek in the Rockies Front Range to the town of Silver Plume.

 

Mid-trip, we climbed off for a mine tour of the old Lebanon Silver Mine that turned out to be a real treasure! IMG_3401The guide was a lifelong resident of Silver Plume, and she really knew her mining stuff! She was a delight, and answered every question with wit and a deep knowledge.  We also learned about the miners’ lunch–pasties–which we had a chance to sample later in our trip.

Trudging out from our day (one hour, fifteen minutes) in the mines, we were of course, ravenous. So next stop was for Mountain Pizza in Georgetown. Yes, pizza by the pound. Coming back into Parker, we stopped by Littleton in a driving rainstorm to snap a picture of the house on Josephine Way where I spent my fifteenth summer. My brother pointed out Columbine High School, three blocks from where I’d lived. Columbine has always had a connection for Jen and me. The tragedy started the week we married, in 1999, and sadly, continues every several weeks or so that schools are in session.

In America.

We wrapped up Colorado with a street festival in Denver on South Gaylord Street. IMG_3423For all your income tax needs, stop in at Mike Downs, CPA, 1040 Gaylord Street. 1040. Get it? The Festival was followed by a splendid cookout in Boulder at Matt and Jen’s, where we met their newest family member, and desserted on Chocolate Mousse cake from Carlo’s Bakery in Las Vegas. (Yes, the boys and I went back after all and bought a cake, froze it, and toted it to Colorado with us!)

Colorado is the one state west of the Mississippi where we feel at home already. We spent two weeks there nine years ago, and again two weeks three years ago, and if  it wasn’t so far from the ocean, we would strongly consider calling it home.

While it Wasn’t on our Schedule…

As the immortal bard John Lennon once said, “Life is what happens to us while we are busy making other plans.”  On Wednesday, at 12:23 pm Central Time, as we drove from Mitchell, SD to our next camp in Hot Springs, SD, our motor home broke down just before exit 225 on I-90.  It went into what is called limp mode. It is hard to imagine a more apt technical term.

We limped off the interstate in the general direction of a gas station at the top of a hill on Highway 16.  We never reached the top. What followed was a series of calls, starting with the Good Sam Roadside Assistance dispatch.  Phrases like, “holiday week, ” “remote location,” “limited options,” sprinkled the short conversation between interminable hold periods.

Other things happened too.  Two motor homes  and a guy in a pick up truck stopped to make sure we were okay.  Jordan was dispatched by Sam from Charley’s Auto Service in Kennebec , nine miles back, to see if he could determine if it was worth hauling us to his shop. He couldn’t, but not for lack of trying.

It is one of those mysterious events that befall vehicles, that I stopped worrying about at some point in the last 3,500 miles or so.  We have covered almost 30 states without so much as a hiccough from this faithful lumbering beast, and now a baffling, and possibly very expensive, ailment has her functioning perfectly as a camper and not a whit as a conveyance.

We were immediately befriended by Beth and Lauren of the New Frontier RV park in Presho, SD.  They enlisted a neighbor,  Scott part-owner of Hutch’s Cafe & Lounge in Presho, to tow our motor home with his pickup truck the half-mile or so to the campground. photo 4 July 4 Wouldn’t take anything but thanks for the effort. We can’t get anyone to look at the motor home until Tuesday, July 8. In Chamberlain, forty miles back.

Now I remember why I love blogs. It’s the immediacy. The “this is what’s happening now, won’t it be interesting to see how it turns out?” emotion of the moment.  Funny thing, last time I felt this way was when our car broke down in San Antonio.  There is a moral there.

Beth and Lauren have invited us to a Fourth of July picnic tonight in camp. Not sure what we’ll do.  It is a beautiful, idyllic setting, and quite peaceful.photo 2 July 4

I keep thinking of the thousands who’d planned to spend their Fourth on the Outer Banks, and the wrenching experience of forced evacuations for Arthur.  We hope everyone is safe, somewhere. Keep low, Jimmy B, since I am sure you stayed on the island.

Give me Presho, photo 1 July 4and the strong sense that, just today, the nation’s birth day, we are right where we are supposed to be. Happy Independence Day, to friends and loved ones near and far.  Be safe, be well. Be grateful.

And pass the potato salad!

The Straight Up Land

One of the rangers in this extraordinary country in southern Utah said the Native Americans referred to the surroundings as the Straight Up Landphoto(70) It is easy to see why.

To me, visiting Zion is like being down in the Grand Canyon.  Of course it is not as big, but maybe that’s the point. The way to reduce the Grand Canyon to manageable size, in my experience, is to go in.  photo(69)Not far. Just a little walk is all it takes, but it’s a way to begin to bring its immensity to scale.

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The only way to see Zion!

In Zion National Park, as in Yosemite, you spend most of your time, if you follow the standard approach, looking up from the valley floor.  Zion has a great shuttle system to control the flow of visitors inside the park.  Though we groused at first–we usually skip them when they’re optional–we loved the shuttle. We could get off and on to do short hikes whenever we pleased, and the shuttle ran often. Thankfully, it also had a sun roof, since one spends a great deal of time in Zion looking–right–straight up.

We also saw an elk, who was less impressed with us than we of him. Or her. photo(72)

The next day, we visited another product of the unique gyrations of the Colorado Plateau over the last 60 million years–Bryce Canyon National Park. There, a perky young ranger at the information desk assured us that the  Queen’s Garden was an easy hike for a four-year-old.  Fun for the whole family, she beamed!

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The hoodoos: perpetually on watch.

Bryce Canyon, the land of hoodoos and other whimsical feats of Ma Nature.  Zion and Bryce would both be on our list of recommended parks.  Not too far apart, but different as night and day. And both worth a trip off the beaten path to explore.

We now have a rule that before we ask about hiking trails for youngsters, we ask if the rangers have children of their own.  We also have decided that when the park service labels a hike moderate, the designation is to make a point about how out-of-condition most of us are.  I get that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sprints and Marathons

Phoenix is a shimmering, simmering city in the Valley of the Sun.  Its weathercasters spend ten seconds on local weather, and then describe in gruesome detail the weather in the rest of the country.  Phoenicians will tell you its a dry heat, and it really only feels like the anteroom to hell for two-three months a year.

Thirty years ago, on the eve of the Los Angeles Summer Olympics, I left Phoenix to return to Maryland.  I’d been here almost four years, first a a house painter, then as a Front Office Manager at the Sheraton Scottsdale. Long story.

The day after we arrived in the Valley, we enjoyed a picnic lunch with Lauren, our transplanted cousin and niece, who unfortunately was flying east later in the day, for a funeral.

We also renewed acquaintance with Aunt Kathleen and Uncle Mark of Mesa, and with cousins Jason and Kim, and their very cool kids Alex and Max.

photo(40)When we are on the road, day after day, the five of us, there are moments when it is just so fine to see a  familiar face.  As we sat in Kim and Jason’s beautiful, giant toyroom-of-a-house, we all relished the complete normalcy of an evening IN.  photo(44) We have met up with long-lost relatives in restaurants, and it’s not the same.  Live and learn.

One thing to be wary of in our extended trip is the pace.  When it starts to feel like we are leaping from the car, snapping photos, and leaping back in, it’s probably time to slow down and take a campground day.  It is a tricky balance.  My tendency is to want to see it all, since “when will we be this close again?”

But six months is a marathon, not a sprint, and life in 192 square feet requires accommodations all around.  So we have been learning more about each other, as we’ve motored west, and we quietly often beam with pride at how the kids roll with the punches.   photo(45)They live in the present and speak with an honesty that often serves to instruct the “teachers.”

Cowboy Wisdom & Buckaroo Poems

I chanced upon some cowboy wisdom in a men’s room in Holbrook, Arizona, which seems pithy and timely.  Or timeless:

Don’t squat with your spurs on.  Never smack a man who’s chewing tobacco.  Broke is what happens when a cowboy lets his yearnings get ahead of his earnings.  When in doubt, let your horse do your thinking.  Never kick a fresh turd on a hot day. The only way to drive cattle fast is slowly.  Behind every successful rancher is a wife who works in town. Poor is having to sell the horse to buy the saddle.  If you find yourself in a hole, first–stop digging.  The quickest way to double your money is to fold it over and put it back in your pocket.  Never, ever, miss a good opportunity to shut up.

We stayed a couple nights in the quiet town of Holbrook and journeyed through the Petrified Forest, and the Painted Desert.  I’ll let my two older students take it from here–budding Shakespeares:

We saw a desert painted over time

It is an ever changing desert

Made by the sun and the clouds

We saw trees mummified by time

Left to rot beneath the sand

But instead were turned into works of art

For everyone to enjoy

Son One

Son Two

photo 3(1)Happy Trails!

Carlsbad, Speaking of Bats…

Jim White sounds like a real-life Tom Sawyer, complete with cave. Jim didn’t have to evade Injun Joe, but the cave he explored is at least as impressive as the one Tom found behind a waterfall.   We got to see Carlsbad for ourselves, and to be honest, I am glad we saw Mammoth Cave in Kentucky first.  IMG_6768While Mammoth is well over 400 miles of, well–cave, Carlsbad is gigantic.  The basic tour, perfect for your basic four-year-old and nervous parent,  is self-guided, and covers over four miles, if you walk in or out.

Of course, with a four-year-old, we thought it prudent (and much easier!) to take the elevator that travels 750 feet from the lobby of the Visitor’s Center. Okay, it felt a lot like IMG_6793cheating, but it left time at the top for a great picnic.

Did I mention my kids haven’t been to McDonald’s in 33 days? Please don’t tell them–we’ve been trying to keep them distracted!

Back to Jim White, the one-man P.T. Barnum of the Carlsbad Caverns: you would be pleased to see how well the National Park Service is stewarding your find. Like teachers, the underpaid staff and the sea of volunteers at national parks and monuments across the states have been unbelievably dedicated, knowledgeable, and champions of their particular natural or human site. They are not all trained docents or presenters. Most of them are neighbors nearby or retired women and men who are thinking of legacies, and as Ronald Reagan once said, “…just want to leave the woodpile higher than I found it.”

We didn’t see any bats IMG_6752while we were at Carlsbad.  Wrong time of year.  But we did see bat guano that was roughly 45,000 years old.  By far the youngest cave feature we saw.

Sometimes it’s nice to be somewhere where you’re not the oldest thing in the room!       .

The Mystery of Family

One of the main goals of traveling for us is to catch up with family scattered like dandelion seeds over the country.  From  Texas to Arizona to California to Colorado to Montana to New York.  We will miss Alabama and South Carolina and Florida this trip, but we are, after all, moving to Florida…IMG_20140330_194246_371

We talked over the picnic table last night about how strange it is that there are people in the world mommy and daddy have no relationship to, but when our kids are born, they instantly have uncles and great-aunts and cousins they will have for life.IMG_20140330_194304_377

My wife and kids have been meeting relatives, in some cases for the first time here in Dallas.  Strangers from a shared tribe open their homes and their emotional lives, and share all sorts of things, ask the most probing questions,  They are, after all, family.

Family often leaves clues.  My oldest is told affectionately that he has the mannerisms of Uncle Sandy, by a woman who’s not seen Sandy in decades.  Men who are grandparents are referred to by the names ten-year-olds carry.  Billy. Richie.

What invariably begins as the most awkward of conversations between complete strangers soon becomes surprisingly comfortable, after all.  Connections are discovered, both in the past and the present.IMG_20140330_183208_359

People spark friendships over the oddest things.  Dogs and campfires and roasted marshmellows. And tentative emails.  This is your niece.  We’ll be passing through in several weeks, and would like to see the gang…

Strangers become comrades, and partings are more genuine sadness than relief. Until next time…

 

The Sixth Floor

I paid a pilgrimage yesterday, to the sixth floor of the Texas School Book Depository.  And to Dealey Plaza visible out its windows.

Everything’s been said about November 22, 1963.  And still so many questions linger.  I looked for something new, for me, and found it. In listening to the inventory of items found at the window, I heard, for the first time, something I’ve probably heard a hundred times before: “…a partially consumed lunch.” Let’s see…maybe eat half my liverwurst and cheese, set up the boxes in the window…” If I live to be a hundred, so many elements of that day won’t compute.

Suffice to say if and when I ever make it to heaven, one of my first five questions will be, “…about Dallas, 1963….” and judging by the respectful crowd on a Tuesday morning in March 2014, I won’t be the only one.

As I walked the solemn exhibits, I wondered if the seniors around me in the museum were split as I was, so viscerally between the present and the past.  I have never been so emotionally impacted by a place before, and at my age, I have seen a lot of places.

I know how arrogant this next part will sound, but it’s the truth.  I had to come to the museum to make sure they got it right.  It is one thing to study history–the noble and the shameful elements that make up our today.

But Dallas is my history.  Just like millions of others my age and older, it happened to me.  I know that because images of those four days are poised in the wings of my mind, clear and young and indelible.  I lived it and live it.  And so I wanted to be sure they got it right.  For myself, and for my kids, about which 1963 is to them what World War I was for me: a chapter in a book.

Amazingly, they did get it right.

No display calls attention to the fact that Jack Kennedy was no saint. The exhibit is a shameless tribute to the man.  But it avoids the temptation to sidestep the host of  questions that linger about the many factions that both revered and reviled Kennedy, and how one young, career loser leans forward at the end of a chain of dark coincidences to set aside his sandwich and obliterate Camelot.

 

A man may die, nations may rise and fall, but an idea lives on.

John F. Kennedy

February 8, 1963

 

No Fiery Diamonds in Hot Springs

Sunday we packed up after a great week in Hot Springs, AR at the Catherine’s Landing RV Resort on Lake Catherine.  It still felt like a campground in many respects, but there were some new twists–at least for us novices.

One one side of the complex is an open-air pavilion that covers probably two acres.  In addition to a bathhouse that takes up a small bit of one corner, it has a host of picnic tables, and some large fire pits.  Since we had rain pretty steady for several days, it turned out to be the perfect place for the kids to ride scooters and meet other kids.  The resort included a frisbee golf course, which the kids also loved!

One evening my youngest and I shared a campfire with the Walker family from southern Arkansas.  Mike is the principal at Star City High School, and gathered with wife Jennifer and kids Emily and Caleb for a spring break gathering with family.  My youngest developed his first crush, on Miss Emily.

Can you guess what the assembled are up to here on a field in Murfreesboro: The Hunt ? We journeyed on a day trip to Crater of Diamonds State Park to stake our forIMG_20140328_154734_736tune.  Midway through it rained,  hard, so happily we’d not done the week’s laundry yet.  When the boys got bored panning for diamond chips, they moshed in the 37 acres of muck.

We wandered through the Fordyce Bath House Visitors Center in Hot Springs National Park and “quaffed the elixir.” Touring the basement for some reason reminded me of scenes from the Overlook Hotel in Stephen King’s The Shining.

On Saturday, the first sunny day, we loaded up the fishing gear and lunch on a pontoon boat out of Lake Catherine State Park.  Jen waphoto(14)s our captain, without complaint in the morning cold, until we realized she was frozen to the boat’s wheel.  Can you spot the turtle on the log behind Jen?

We are now in Dallas.  At 10:30 this morning, we are touring a place that I’ve known about since I was almost ten years old, but never seen in person: the sixth floor of the Texas School Book Depository.